taylormiller

Sorry for the late response. This is the RFH with remote start. This was brand new from dealer. Id appreciate if these are not shared outside this group.
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This particular car was a later model car that does not utilize a VATS module, but stores the information in the BCM. The BCM was bad in the car. As soon as you turned the key on, the security light as well as other dash light would start blinking, as well as one of the needles on either the tach or speedometer. (I don't remember which) Also, I could hear a clicking under the dash that was in rhythm with the cluster blinking. I traced it to the BCM, and a relay on the board. Incidentally, this cycling relay coincided with a no run/no start condition.
I ended up advising the customer to get a new BCM from Oh'Really. When the new BCM was plugged, everything seemed normal except the security light flashing. I could not get the Tech2 to program the BCM. I did use the Tech2 to do a theft system relearn, and as soon as it went through the 10 minute wait, the security light went out, I cycled the ignition, and she fired up. The BCM still would not program with tech2. It kept giving a no communication message.
Put the 608 on it and noted that the unit was actually a refurb. It still contained the VIN from the donor vehicle. Surprisingly, the 608 allowed me to edit the VIN in the BCM. Then it showed success programming the BCM. 
When I finished the interior lights and the automatic windows did not work. I had the following 2 codes. I referred the customer to an auto electrician, and advised them that it is possible that one of the 2 diagnostic codes could have been responsible for frying the original module.

You have ruined me forever. I may never sit through another interrogation again, thus causing headaches for future codesmiths everywhere who are unfortunate enough to work on these cars after me.
It worked like a charm...
 
 
 
 

The customer's computer had water intrusion. 
This is an easy swap via eeprom, using a used donor ECU.
I changed the eeprom and the 28 legger I am pointing to, as well as the the 14 leg device straight across that forms a triangle with the other 2.
I really do not think swapping the 28 leg device was necessary. Next time I will forgo it and see if I get the same results.
There is a caveat with this board that some of you are probably aware of. I just discovered it today. The components were glued down to hold them in place, before they were soldered. The glue that holds them is pretty firm. You have to liquefy all of your solder before you pry the the device off the board. The glue holds so tight that you can easily lose the device when it let's go. After the first one, I did the rest down inside a drawer in my bench.
You will have to scrape the glue off the devices and off the board in order to get them to lay back down properly for resoldering.
The glue is not solid, it is in spots. It scrapes off easily once you get the spots exposed.

The customer's computer had water intrusion. 
This is an easy swap via eeprom, using a used donor ECU.
I changed the eeprom and the 28 legger I am pointing to, as well as the the 14 leg device straight across that forms a triangle with the other 2.
I really do not think swapping the 28 leg device was necessary. Next time I will forgo it and see if I get the same results.
There is a caveat with this board that some of you are probably aware of. I just discovered it today. The components were glued down to hold them in place, before they were soldered. The glue that holds them is pretty firm. You have to liquefy all of your solder before you pry the the device off the board. The glue holds so tight that you can easily lose the device when it let's go. After the first one, I did the rest down inside a drawer in my bench.
You will have to scrape the glue off the devices and off the board in order to get them to lay back down properly for resoldering.
The glue is not solid, it is in spots. It scrapes off easily once you get the spots exposed.

The customer's computer had water intrusion. 
This is an easy swap via eeprom, using a used donor ECU.
I changed the eeprom and the 28 legger I am pointing to, as well as the the 14 leg device straight across that forms a triangle with the other 2.
I really do not think swapping the 28 leg device was necessary. Next time I will forgo it and see if I get the same results.
There is a caveat with this board that some of you are probably aware of. I just discovered it today. The components were glued down to hold them in place, before they were soldered. The glue that holds them is pretty firm. You have to liquefy all of your solder before you pry the the device off the board. The glue holds so tight that you can easily lose the device when it let's go. After the first one, I did the rest down inside a drawer in my bench.
You will have to scrape the glue off the devices and off the board in order to get them to lay back down properly for resoldering.
The glue is not solid, it is in spots. It scrapes off easily once you get the spots exposed.

The customer's computer had water intrusion. 
This is an easy swap via eeprom, using a used donor ECU.
I changed the eeprom and the 28 legger I am pointing to, as well as the the 14 leg device straight across that forms a triangle with the other 2.
I really do not think swapping the 28 leg device was necessary. Next time I will forgo it and see if I get the same results.
There is a caveat with this board that some of you are probably aware of. I just discovered it today. The components were glued down to hold them in place, before they were soldered. The glue that holds them is pretty firm. You have to liquefy all of your solder before you pry the the device off the board. The glue holds so tight that you can easily lose the device when it let's go. After the first one, I did the rest down inside a drawer in my bench.
You will have to scrape the glue off the devices and off the board in order to get them to lay back down properly for resoldering.
The glue is not solid, it is in spots. It scrapes off easily once you get the spots exposed.

This car came through the auction and was at a body shop, so there isn't any history. The cluster didn't show the mileage, and there was a B3902 code - Incorrect immobilizer identifier -in the IPC. If you see this, most likely a used cluster was installed. Reprogramming the keys won't clear the code.  It's a Global A vehicle and a used parts don't play well. The vin in the cluster didn't match the rest of the car. Oddly there were no other codes and the car worked fine in all other aspects. 
https://gm-techlink.com/?p=11221
 
 

Supposedly was the alternator, which was already replaced. With the by pass in it is now charging at 14.3 volts... which is manually adjustable. Like I said, I will post pictures once I get it all working properly.
 
 
 
I'd love it incase this does not pan out. Just let me know how much $ + shipping.
Have an email into the guy - the by pass has the car charging, but his trick to tricking the charge light off is not working.
 
Essentially it is a resistor with a heat sync wired in between the alternator plug coming from the ECM. That portion of the ECM is working, as if you plug it in to the alternator the light was not on (Even tho it did not charge)

After you do the VTD learn it will. Hell, I've done that on AKL if value isn't printed on ignition rather than interrogate.
 
 
Best Regards, S. Kameron CRL.

Went back to check light. Looked under dash.  Found remains of a home made bypass kit. Not connected any more.  So I will try putting that back to get her with a new resistor. 

Yes. But 1st go in under PCM/special functions/PCM replaced. That will probably get you a runner.
 

I am interested in a group buy, depending on price.

The wait is over
 
 

Have done several more ecu's no issues. Great tool 

2015 Silverado BCM swap no sps, no theft learn.   10 to 15 min read original and save files read new module and save virgin files then write original to module and install and start

I'd venture a guess that most any 2005 Caravan still on the road is a failed wheel bearing or missed oil change away from being junkyard fodder. 
I understand wanting to defend the moral high ground but it's ok to be realistic. Write down the pin you choose on the vehicle in a conspicuous place (door jamb by the data plate is my fave because it's where I normally look to get the vin back in the days I could just call in a PIN). Notify the customer and explain the potential issues. Do the thing, get the money, get on with your day. 
All of us keyboard badasses on here would do the job better, faster, and charge more. I myself have raised the issue and challenged the status quo when the ability to change the PIN first arrived in our collective toolbox and a few people had the audacity to mention they'd set some PIN's to 0000 because eff the customer, they're always gonna have to use a locksmith now!
I'm older and less interested in causing a ruckus over the way other people choose to fix things. I still replace stripped screws when I find them and pick up trash off the sidewalk (provided there's a receptacle to drop it into), but I'm not above farting in an elevator either. On a moral alignment chart, I'm probably somewhere between chaotic good and chaotic neutral. 

Shop installed brand new PCM. Micropod required to program. Most Chrysler vehicles have an option to replace PCM under the BCM. This vehicle does not have that option. You need to select PCM from the topology then update the flash after which you need to update the odometer and then the pcm vin.

While I agree with that it does get messy when trying to figure out some of the uplevel stuff. I've had all kinds of weird stuff happen when trying to do things like enable a backup camera or add nav. 
I have not done it in several years. . . basically since the ones that required tis2web started showing up. When only the Tech2 was required it was relatively easy. Once the laptop and cellular data and subscriptions come into play I priced it out of what anyone wants to pay. And given the success rate was on the low-rent side of "iffy", I pretty much quit. If the radio they show up with isn't compatible or is broken, etc. the situation devolves into  "well can't you try programming it harder?" 
That's not low hanging fruit. . . them's rotten apples way up the tree. 

I'll bet there's a Micropod knockoff coming out soon ...

This vehicle had an intermittent no start- key wouldn’t turn. Also, the key would sometimes turn but no crank.  When the key would turn but no crank, occasionally a light or two would flicker on the instrument cluster.  It uses the BMW style key with H92 blade and the Land Rover exclusive EWS4.5 system. At first I thought it might be the steering lock but it ended up being the instrument cluster. 
With the used cluster plugged in the vehicle would not start. The 8 leg EEPROM in the pictures was read off the original cluster and written to the new/used cluster. The vehicle then started and the miles were also correct. 

I was at a shop yesterday to make a key for a different vehicle. While I was there they asked if I would take a look at this 2016 Honda Civic, the immobilizer light was flashing and the vehicle wouldn’t start. I walked over to the vehicle and saw they already had their Maxisys Elite connected, so I thought great I don’t need to get mine since that would be my tool of choice for this scenario. I didn’t get any info and I didn’t really ask any questions because I wanted to make an initial assessment so I knew what questions to ask. 
I want to share the diagnostic process I used to repair this vehicle thinking that it may help others. 
The first thing I did was go into immobilizer setup and attempted to perform an “all keys lost” programming. I was pretty certain it wasn’t going to work but I was looking for a specific response from the vehicle. I got what I was looking for- “immobilizer system not normal” if you get this message you can try to program the keys as many times and with as many different keys as you want and it will never work. 
Next I grabbed my antenna tester out my pocket and tested the immobilizer coil. It was putting out a signal. 
After that I went to diagnosis and did an auto scan on all modules. There were no codes in the ECM or immobilizer system but there were codes in the ABS/TCS/VSA, EPS, and a few other systems. I started checking the codes in each system one by one. I would read the codes, clear them, cycle the Key, and read them again to see which ones came back. 
The ABS system had a hard fault for “internal failure”. I ask the technician if he had checked the ABS system. “Oh ya, I put a new ABS module in it.”  Did you run the replace function in Immobilizer setup?  “What’s that?”
Then I went to the main screen on Maxisys, selected hot functions, then Immo, then immobilizer setup, then MICU,VSA replace. I followed the screen prompts and when I was done the immobilizer light was off and the vehicle started. After that I went back to the ABS system cleared and rechecked codes. Surprisingly the internal failure code was still there but my job was done. 
Normally I wouldn’t even take a job like this, the only reason I even looked at it was because I was standing next to it and they already had their Maxisys hooked up to it. If you’re going to tackle a job like this you need the right combination of tools, knowledge and luck. As the saying goes sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!  
The only thing better than fixing somebody else’s car with your Maxisys, is fixing somebody else’s car with their Maxisys!  

I find the problem with amateur computer swappers (and I include many commercial automotive repair shops in that designation) to be that they don't know how to source the correct computer. Especially is that true with transponder optional vehicles. If you are going to put in a used computer, you MUST match not only the part number, but also the ALPHA code, which is the 4 or 5 digit alphanumeric number that is usually in large letters. (sometimes they are actually all letters with no numbers) The same part number can be used for many different types of vehicles with various motors and transmissions. The Alpha code designates the calibration information that is flashed to that computer and that calibration information is critical to allow that particular vehicle profile to start, run, and shift etc. If the Alpha code is wrong, the computer will have to be flashed to ever work.
Did the alpha codes match on the computers? Did you check to see if his vehicle was transponder equipped? That is a transponder optional year. If it is a non transponder vehicle, all it needs is the correct computer. It will plug and play with no additional programming needed. I have trained some of my shops on how to get the correct computer. Sometimes they call me to program one, and when I show up I see that it is not transponder equipped. The key is sitting in the ignition, but they never tried jt. I reach in and start the vehicle, collect my trip charge, and hit the road.
If the vehicle was using a chipped key, it is only a matter of editing the VIN and transferring the secret key.  I am not sure if there is a way to do that on the bench. That goes above my current pay scale. 

I find the problem with amateur computer swappers (and I include many commercial automotive repair shops in that designation) to be that they don't know how to source the correct computer. Especially is that true with transponder optional vehicles. If you are going to put in a used computer, you MUST match not only the part number, but also the ALPHA code, which is the 4 or 5 digit alphanumeric number that is usually in large letters. (sometimes they are actually all letters with no numbers) The same part number can be used for many different types of vehicles with various motors and transmissions. The Alpha code designates the calibration information that is flashed to that computer and that calibration information is critical to allow that particular vehicle profile to start, run, and shift etc. If the Alpha code is wrong, the computer will have to be flashed to ever work.
Did the alpha codes match on the computers? Did you check to see if his vehicle was transponder equipped? That is a transponder optional year. If it is a non transponder vehicle, all it needs is the correct computer. It will plug and play with no additional programming needed. I have trained some of my shops on how to get the correct computer. Sometimes they call me to program one, and when I show up I see that it is not transponder equipped. The key is sitting in the ignition, but they never tried jt. I reach in and start the vehicle, collect my trip charge, and hit the road.
If the vehicle was using a chipped key, it is only a matter of editing the VIN and transferring the secret key.  I am not sure if there is a way to do that on the bench. That goes above my current pay scale. 

I am still trying to find a solution for migrating these over.