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taylormiller

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Posts posted by taylormiller

  1. This particular car was a later model car that does not utilize a VATS module, but stores the information in the BCM. The BCM was bad in the car. As soon as you turned the key on, the security light as well as other dash light would start blinking, as well as one of the needles on either the tach or speedometer. (I don't remember which) Also, I could hear a clicking under the dash that was in rhythm with the cluster blinking. I traced it to the BCM, and a relay on the board. Incidentally, this cycling relay coincided with a no run/no start condition.

    I ended up advising the customer to get a new BCM from Oh'Really. When the new BCM was plugged, everything seemed normal except the security light flashing. I could not get the Tech2 to program the BCM. I did use the Tech2 to do a theft system relearn, and as soon as it went through the 10 minute wait, the security light went out, I cycled the ignition, and she fired up. The BCM still would not program with tech2. It kept giving a no communication message.

    Put the 608 on it and noted that the unit was actually a refurb. It still contained the VIN from the donor vehicle. Surprisingly, the 608 allowed me to edit the VIN in the BCM. Then it showed success programming the BCM. 

    When I finished the interior lights and the automatic windows did not work. I had the following 2 codes. I referred the customer to an auto electrician, and advised them that it is possible that one of the 2 diagnostic codes could have been responsible for frying the original module.20210918_210251.thumb.jpg.3495fd7ff2ba33cba9c94d81c10969df.jpg

  2. I swapped all the devices on the board to the donor module. I screwed something up, probably on the big microprocessor.

    The car started and motor ran smooth. The car would not shift into gear, and the windows would not work. 

    I had the customer order a new BCM, and I will try to flash it with Tech2. When you are programming these BCMs where the VATS system runs through the BCM instead of a VATS module,  does it recognize the first VATS value it sees?

  3. This customer had a problem with his vehicle. He thought it was the VATS ignition, so he replaced it and called me to cut him 2 keys off the dummy blanks with the correct VATS value.

    I get there and realize his problem is not VATS related, but is indeed the BCM. As soon as I turned the ignition on, I hear a clicking sound under the dash? And every time it clicks the security light, as well as other lights blink, and even one of the needles in the cluster jumps repeatedly.

    I traced the sound to the BCM, and upon cracking the case, I could see that it was a relay soldered to the board that was malfunctioning. As soon as I unplugged one of the plugs going to the BCM, the relay quit cycling, and the security light would go out when ignition was turned in with a proper VATS value.

    I figured it would be an easy fix to have him get a used BCM, and I could rob a relay off of it, and swap it onto the board of his BCM.

    I can't get that sucker to give it up. I am not sure what is holding it to the board. Hot air on the opposite side if the board is not giving it up.

    I know if no way to program a used BCM to a VATS vehicle, so I would like to try and swap the devices necessary. I am sure the large microprocessor has to go, but I am not sure if any of the other devices need to swap.

    Anybody have any input on what needs to be swapped?

  4. On 6/15/2021 at 7:52 PM, Kingtlp said:

    When this car did start the mechanic said it would crank start then die. 

    That is a classic symptom of a bad BCM. It manifests itself in the same way on a Passlock 1 and Passlock 2 vehicle.

  5. 3 hours ago, Kingtlp said:

    No starter when it doesn’t work. It’s intermitten. 

    You still didn't answer the question about the security light. Does it stay on when you get a no crank? 

    If it does, the easiest way to test if it is is wiring ignition problem,  is to read the resistance on your current key with a multi meter, then solder in a register with the correct resistance for the vats value, as low in the chain as you can.  If the problem persist, you know it is probably a problem with the vats box, or the BCM. Some of the later model VATS vehicles don't have a VATS module, but it is controlled by the BCM. It could also be that the signal from the VATS box or BCM is not getting through to the computer.

  6. 1 hour ago, autokeypro said:

    If you purchase the Master version. You are set. There is a yearly update fee if you decide to purchase it.

    This tool is best for those members (teksavvy and heavily involved with eeprom work) that work with mechanic shops who replace transmission and engine modules. The ROI is high and competition is low. Diversification option for those that are looking to dive more into this world. The nice thing about this line of business is failing ECUs are common and expect repetitive business once the shops (or general public) know you can handle them.

    How much is the yearly maintenance fee. I am pretty heavy into eeprom, but it doesn't seem that there is a lot of difficult eeprom from your demo.

    I already do a lot of simpler computer swaps for shops, writing VINs, matching modules etc. I would just personally need to know what I can do with it. I have no way of knowing what on the list is for U.S. market or if 95% of it is for Europe, Asia or China market.

    I have no doubt that it would be a wide open market. I just wouldn't want to drop 7 Large and find out I can only do half the vehicles I want to do. I would mostly be interested in doing VAG, Mercedes and BMW.

  7. On 4/25/2021 at 8:27 PM, autokeypro said:

    Master Full Flex $7k USD regular

    $6800 for keypro members.

    Also note once you establish a good market for this new line of business, you can always upgrade from slave to master.

    That would never be an option for me Yaser. I just can't ve at tge mercy of someone else getting a file back to me. If I were working in a shop, that would probably work, but not as a mobile service. Every minute I am waiting, I am losing money.

    On 4/26/2021 at 5:16 AM, autokeypro said:

    Attached vehicle list in pdf format which is a little outdated but gives an idea.

    Magic_Motorsport_FLS0_1M_SW_Flex_ECU_cars_vans_bikes_OBD_Bench_Master_19_12_2019.pdf 539.33 kB · 10 downloads

    If I could be indulged for a moment, I would like to talk about how to market to idiots...

    That is a pretty impressive list. However it is something that is not useful to me in order to make a determination if the tool is something that I feel I could make money with.

    I would need to know which vehicles are in my market. Also, the part numbers for ECUs does not say a lot to me. I need to know which ECUs for which models are covered in my market, and which are not for the same vehicle.

    That is something that I could spend hours upon hours researching, but it quickly becomes something that is not worth it to me. 

    I don't mind dropping $7G on a programmer, but I really need to know if there is going to be a market for it so I can get a return on investment. If I have to spend days researching to find out what cars in the U.S. market that it will do, it becomes less and less desirable for me personally. I will just look for somewhere else to invest the money.

  8. Ok, I misunderstood. I saw where you quoted 3,000 and 2,000 but those were both slave versions. I would never be interested in something like that. I do work in the field, and don't need to get caught relying on someone else to get the job completed. How much is the full version?

  9. Just now, taylormiller said:

    It seems like this could be a real money maker for those who have a lot of these cars in their market. If the dealer is the only alternative, you could charge a lot, and still give substantial savings to the customer.

    I am interested in a group buy, depending on price.

  10. 7 hours ago, hangtime said:

    So, yeah. . . you have to do more than just edit the VIN in the IMMO dump. Figured that out a while back. 

    I don't know what else, but more. .  and the world may never know as this is such a rare, obsolete, and financially unworthy system it's not worth the resources to figure it out. 

     

    Years ago I did replace the immo on one of these once with a factory new one and married it with Tech 2, isuzu card, and isuzu tis 2000. No idea if the IM608 emulates enough tech2 isuzu to pull that off. 

    If you go that route, save the virgin file off the new one and do us all a favor. 

    I will see if a new box is available still. I might just take one for the team. Where you order it from, your friendly GM dealer? 

    I don't have an Isuzu card, but I am going to order one. 

    Are you saying that there is a special TIS 2000 just for Isuzu? I don't have that either. I just got my Tech2. I was able to bring a SAAB 9-3 back to life with it on Wednesday.

  11. This heap came into one of my shops from another shop who could not get it running.

    It had a chip and shell. I checked the key, and it had the proper chip, but the chip was unlocked. I gave the shop the option to have the customer fax the needed documentation and get the pin, or pay more and have ne eeprom it. They had the customer get the pin from Isuzu.

    Went to try and program when the pin was acquired, and the vehicle rejected the pin, after leaving the key on overnight with a charger, still no go.

    At this point, they tell my helper that the column was changed. Great, info I could have already used. I tell them to check if the old column is available with immobilizer intact. No go.

    My helper pulls the box and brings it in. The box itself actually has writi I pull the eeprom off, read it, and get the pin. Put it back on the vehicle and still a no go. Leave the key on overnight again and go back. There are 3 keys in the box. I erase the keys and program the key in. Key count hits 1. Still no go. Put another key off the truck, and key count jumps to 2. I erase and program my 2 keys multiple times. the security light in the dash is constantly flashing with the key on. There is also a red light on the left side of the steering wheel that flashes at times.

    I could cycle the key in the door lock, and the car would start for about a second, and die. It would do this one time only, and then ibwoukd have tobcyclebthe key again to get it to start again. Incidentally, it would start and die with a nontransponder key after cycling the door. 

    Pull out the IM 608, and I am able to pull the last 8 of the VIN out of the module.

    I can see the VIN in the dump. It is in position 42-49, the second digit of each pair.

    I misified the dump with the last 8 of the VIN from the vehicle, and wrote it to the eeprom. Everything is still the same, except the vehicle will no longer start and die after cycling the door. 

    Does anyone have any input on what to do to get this heap up? I don't think I need to edit the pin, but I m not sure. Any input on using a donor module? I m also getting the code as noted below.20200904_152407.thumb.jpg.829ecdd9a39d87910384780cbe76d5e9.jpg

    20200903_104823.thumb.jpg.37334717246fd70c40ea8db644f7fe86.jpg

    20200904_155638.jpg

    20200904_161244.jpg

    20200903_104823.jpg

    20200910_114048.jpg

    20200910_114110.jpg

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