michaeleschmidt

From the originator .
VTS_01_2.webm VTS_01_1.webm

I did a 2021 Charger with a locked RFH a couple weeks ago. I couldn't even program a new key with the 608 after I programmed the RFH with witec. Guessing that Stellantis is changing the memory just enough that most programmers wont work on a new update. I had to program the key with witec as well. Also, there is no separate eeprom but there is a 9s12 (i think) mcu and it just takes 4 traces to read. I now have virgin RFH files for both remote start and non remote start hubs. To do a used one you will need to change VIN and PIN in the 9s12. And, the RFH on the charger it did pulled the key data from the BCM. I hadn't programmed keys yet but it already got 2 in the memory after WItec programming.

The customer's computer had water intrusion. 
This is an easy swap via eeprom, using a used donor ECU.
I changed the eeprom and the 28 legger I am pointing to, as well as the the 14 leg device straight across that forms a triangle with the other 2.
I really do not think swapping the 28 leg device was necessary. Next time I will forgo it and see if I get the same results.
There is a caveat with this board that some of you are probably aware of. I just discovered it today. The components were glued down to hold them in place, before they were soldered. The glue that holds them is pretty firm. You have to liquefy all of your solder before you pry the the device off the board. The glue holds so tight that you can easily lose the device when it let's go. After the first one, I did the rest down inside a drawer in my bench.
You will have to scrape the glue off the devices and off the board in order to get them to lay back down properly for resoldering.
The glue is not solid, it is in spots. It scrapes off easily once you get the spots exposed.

Here is a five part video making a prox for this Mini Cooper from start to finish.  We hope you enjoy and this helps you.  Jim and Stacy.
Clicking the link will or should download it to your computer.
 
2016 Mini-Cooper programming part 4.avi 2016 Mini-Cooper programming part 5.avi 2016 Mini-Cooper programming part 1.avi 2016 Mini-Cooper programming part 2.avi 2016 Mini-Cooper programming part 3.avi

Just a short video explaining some info on this module.
1129456158_BMWFEMMODULE.m4v

This car came through the auction and was at a body shop, so there isn't any history. The cluster didn't show the mileage, and there was a B3902 code - Incorrect immobilizer identifier -in the IPC. If you see this, most likely a used cluster was installed. Reprogramming the keys won't clear the code.  It's a Global A vehicle and a used parts don't play well. The vin in the cluster didn't match the rest of the car. Oddly there were no other codes and the car worked fine in all other aspects. 
https://gm-techlink.com/?p=11221
 
 

If you need to shut the alarm off to program the key you can use this to find the door pad code and disarm it.
 
WhatsApp Video 2020-10-23 at 2.32.49 PM.wmv

I will update, I have flashed 3 GM ecu's since this ; my stuff was setup properly it was just a car issue.
 
So if anyone needs help with the current version of TIS2WEB let me know and I can likely help.

FYI on these, 2 experiences both identical with Fleet trucks.
Both vehicles F350, NON transponder.
 
Customer ordered a re manufactured dash from Local ford dealer.
Dash shows up, they install will not start. Blinking theft light. Mileage, VIN etc are all already set and on a sticker on the side of the refurb clusters
 
What does NOT work to get these running
Programmable module installation - Copies data from old to new (I think?) acts exactly the same
Parameter reset - nope
Attempting to program transponder keys and just making it a transp car - nope
 
What does work -
Take out the APP, mileage adjustment, and just set the mileage right back to what it already had. Fired right up with the non transponder keys.
 
Not sure if the parameter reset was required or not - did them anyways prior on the second one.
 
 
Hopefully that saves someone some time.... the dash's ford is sending must all have the PATS enabled and for what ever reason setting the mileage while plugged into the vehicle seems to be turning it off.

This one is going to prove to be...interesting. I went through some diagnostics with the VCDS and ended up talking with their tech support while having my hand held through some of the processes. I thought AE Tools has pretty good tech support. The guy I talked to at Ross-Tech was absolutely outstanding! I was on the phone with him for quite some time. He gave me his name at the beginning of our conversation but I had forgotten it by the time we wrapped it up. I'm terrible with names. He knows the tool inside and out but is also extremely knowledgeable about VW vehicle diagnostics.
As I stated, the problem with the car is the ambient temperature is reading about 7 degrees Celsius and won't allow the A/C to engage. He told me exactly where to find the temperature sensor, took me through some tests, and determined that the issue is actually in the cluster.
When I arrived at the vehicle I saw that the original cluster was in the dash but loose. The donor cluster was in the passenger seat. The shop had swapped them out to see if that's where the problem was. In doing so, they created another problem. Which causes me to point to another current topic of discussion here on KP, while reiterating its crucial importance.
Toward the end of my conversation with the gentleman at Ross-Tech he began explaining that many times, when swapping in a new/used cluster on a late model VW, it will wipe all the data from the ABS module. As he was explaining this, I was sitting in the driver's seat with the original cluster installed and the vehicle running, while staring at a flashing ABS light. He emphasized the importance of running a full module scan on the vehicle and save the data in a file on your computer. A feature that the VCDS has built in.
Now that the ABS module had been wiped, there are two choices in that regard. Send it to the dealer or perform the same vehicle module scan and send the file to Ross-Tech and have them recompile the correct data for the ABS module. Which I did. The VCDS software has the form built in as well to send the file through their website. He said it would be a couple days to generate.
You get 1 year or 15 sessions free tech support with the purchase of the tool. Tech support with Ross-Tech after the first year is normally $40 per session or you can purchase a 10 pack of sessions for $300. The VCDS Pro kit costs about $900 but they don't charge for updates. Since this was the first time I had called since buying the tool several years ago, he didn't charge me for this session. I thought that to be awfully decent of him.
Now the issue with this vehicle is going to be figuring out how to transfer all the necessary immobilizer data, including mileage over to the donor cluster. I hooked up the VVDI2 for the first time today and was somewhat disappointed in how little I was able to accomplish in regard to reading the critical data from the original cluster through the DLC, using a programmed key in the ignition. In fact, after quite a bit of searching through the less than intuitive software, I wasn't able to find how to do that at all. Time to regroup and consider alternatives.

Shop installed brand new PCM. Micropod required to program. Most Chrysler vehicles have an option to replace PCM under the BCM. This vehicle does not have that option. You need to select PCM from the topology then update the flash after which you need to update the odometer and then the pcm vin.

I'll just drop this here.
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Type 2 Immobilizer & PCM Swap.pdf

Bottom line, you are going to need OEM diagnostic capabilities for the manufacturers, years and models you intend to service. That may mean OEM tools, a good J2534 device and appropriate software and/or subscriptions, or most likely a combination of both.
Aftermarket tools will cover some of those duties. But I certainly wouldn't want to step off into that abyss without the catch net of the proper OEM tools underneath me. Not to mention some solid training.

I was at a shop yesterday to make a key for a different vehicle. While I was there they asked if I would take a look at this 2016 Honda Civic, the immobilizer light was flashing and the vehicle wouldn’t start. I walked over to the vehicle and saw they already had their Maxisys Elite connected, so I thought great I don’t need to get mine since that would be my tool of choice for this scenario. I didn’t get any info and I didn’t really ask any questions because I wanted to make an initial assessment so I knew what questions to ask. 
I want to share the diagnostic process I used to repair this vehicle thinking that it may help others. 
The first thing I did was go into immobilizer setup and attempted to perform an “all keys lost” programming. I was pretty certain it wasn’t going to work but I was looking for a specific response from the vehicle. I got what I was looking for- “immobilizer system not normal” if you get this message you can try to program the keys as many times and with as many different keys as you want and it will never work. 
Next I grabbed my antenna tester out my pocket and tested the immobilizer coil. It was putting out a signal. 
After that I went to diagnosis and did an auto scan on all modules. There were no codes in the ECM or immobilizer system but there were codes in the ABS/TCS/VSA, EPS, and a few other systems. I started checking the codes in each system one by one. I would read the codes, clear them, cycle the Key, and read them again to see which ones came back. 
The ABS system had a hard fault for “internal failure”. I ask the technician if he had checked the ABS system. “Oh ya, I put a new ABS module in it.”  Did you run the replace function in Immobilizer setup?  “What’s that?”
Then I went to the main screen on Maxisys, selected hot functions, then Immo, then immobilizer setup, then MICU,VSA replace. I followed the screen prompts and when I was done the immobilizer light was off and the vehicle started. After that I went back to the ABS system cleared and rechecked codes. Surprisingly the internal failure code was still there but my job was done. 
Normally I wouldn’t even take a job like this, the only reason I even looked at it was because I was standing next to it and they already had their Maxisys hooked up to it. If you’re going to tackle a job like this you need the right combination of tools, knowledge and luck. As the saying goes sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!  
The only thing better than fixing somebody else’s car with your Maxisys, is fixing somebody else’s car with their Maxisys!