[Ford As Built Data Article]

"Ask for insider help from your friend the parts distribution manager" doesn't seem like a very good solution for most of us.

[2001 Dodge Durango non transponder PCM replaced]

What Jay said is mostly true, but there seems to be an exception on some early transponder optional vehicles. There's a function in the J2534 toolbox that comes with the Drew Tech and rebranded Drew Tech tools to turn off the immobilizer. It doesn't work most of the time, but did work once for me on a Durango. I can't remember what year it was though.

[2018 Dodge Charger Micropod vs J2534 Key Programming Question and Module Reflashing Info]

I tried programming a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee key by J2534 and utterly failed. I couldn't connect to the vehicle at all with my CarDaq Plus. Keep in mind that this is not the latest in J2534 technology, so maybe a newer interface is necessary?

I did notice that the Tech Authority website now has links to get incodes for the Sprinters, so maybe they're opening up that system to us now?

[RL66 chip on 2007 Nissan Frontier]

The RL66 should be a 93LC66 and the R56L should be a 93LC56. The L in the part number indicates that it's capable of operating at a lower voltage (2.5 V). The difference in the two is that the 93C66 holds 8 kb of data and the 93C56 only holds 4 kb. If you look at your RL66 dump and no data is being stored in the latter half of the file, the L56R will probably work. If there's anything being stored in that area though, I wouldn't even attempt it.

[2004-2007 Chrysler Town And Country Used ECM Replacement With Autel Maxisys]

52 minutes ago, keymachine said:

Pretty much what David said.  Everybody has their own acronym including vehicle manufactures and scan tool manufactures. I general use ECM to refer the computer that controls the engine functions which is what was replaced in his case. On this vehicle PCM would be an incorrect usage of that abbreviation because it has a separate transmission control module. 

For the most part if someone uses ECM, ECU or PCM they are referring to the same thing- the computer/module that controls the engine functions.  

As David said on vehicles where the engine computer and transmission computer are integrated into one unit, PCM would be the correct usage of that acronym and using TCM would be incorrect. But potato potaato. 

Obviously no one explain this to Autel when they were writing the softewate. 

 

I think Autel just used whatever terminology the factory tool uses. The MaxiSys menus and PCM replaced functions feel a whole lot like the factory stuff. And the factory stuff uses "PCM Replaced" even on vehicles with a separate TCM, because I did one like that last week.

[2004-2007 Chrysler Town And Country Used ECM Replacement With Autel Maxisys]

5 minutes ago, Keyhole - Eugene said:

So was the ECM or the PCM replaced?

ECM = Engine Control Module, PCM = Power Control module yes?

 

Or does it matter? The screens just say PCM so I'm curious for future reference, as we just bought one of these tools for this exact purpose.

PCM=Powertrain Control Module. It's supposed to be a single module that controls both the engine and transmission. In practice, most people don't really know what either term means and the distinction is unimportant, so the two terms are typically used interchangeably. Things get muddied further by people using ECM and ECU to mean electronic control module and unit, respectively, so PCM is often used to prevent any ambiguity about which particular module is being discussed.

[GM Module swapping on late model AA Vehciles]

1 hour ago, Lock_jockey said:

Thank you this is exactly the kind of info we should be compiling.

interesting about honda type 1, I was always told thieves where swapping immo boxes and matched keys to steal Honda preludes constantly?

Just for fun I tried 5523 like it was an older Nissan and it worked fine.

Do you, (or anyone reading this) have a preferred device/system for ECU swap/airbag reset/vin changing all that sort of thing? I wouldn't mind dropping a few grand on something that was capable of doing something like that sounds like it would really come in handy.

It's hard to compile information because it's different for almost every YMM and module. It requires some experience and some resources to look stuff up, like factory service manuals.

There may be some intricacy or exception to the Honda immo matching. I've only done about 10 type 1 Hondas, and only once had to marry a module, but it definitely didn't work immediately.

I've seen a few Nissans that should use a random pin that used 5523. It's a secret that those in the know tend to hold closely.

If you want to match modules properly, you'll need a J2534 interface and an OEM subscription. It's not as easy or profitable as I'd hoped it would be when I first got into it, so look into it carefully before investing. It takes longer than most locksmith work and then the OEMs take a significant chunk of your profit. GM or Volvo make as much as I do or more when I program one of their vehicles.

[GM Module swapping on late model AA Vehciles]

On 8/26/2017 at 0:39 AM, Lock_jockey said:

does anyone have a list of plug and play ECU/BCM's whatever they are called as per OEM title? This would be amazingly handy for me.

EDIT: here's my list as far as I know PLEASE CORRECT/EDIT/ADD TO THIS IF I AM WRONG

as far as I know all the 16 bit toy/lexus are all plug and play. 98-about 2002

Honda type 1 (red key programming key 1997'ish) is plug and play swapping the immo box with a matched chip will start the vehicle

ALL Honda's after type 1 require IMMO matching witch is built into the antenna coil, a new ECU is NOT plug and play due to this.

Ford PATS 1/2 are plug and play damaged/ antenna coil's are plug and play

Honda type 1 immo boxes are matched to the PCM. Matching requires a red key, a black key, and a programmer. AD equipment will do it. Honda type 2 keys are stored in the PCM and the antenna requires no matching. I worked on one a few weeks back where the customer replaced the ignition and ring with one from a parts store. The keys wouldn't program, and I scanned them to discover they were blank T5 chips. I cloned the original into them and discovered that connecting to the car was never required. Honda type 3+ require component matching.

AFAIK, ALL Ford antenna rings are plug and play and require no matching.

Now we start getting into an area where it's a matter of degree. Nissan antenna rings, BCMs, PCMs, and steering locks aren't plug and play per se, but they only require reprogramming the keys to make them work. Nissan prox programming slots require no matching. Ford PCM and PATS3 vehicles also only require key programming. Many GM BCMs, immobilizer/antenna rings, and PCMs can be matched by OBP. Remember that in many situations you can get the car running, but the programming isn't complete or correct. Many PCMs and BCMs hold the VIN and you'll get a VIN mismatch which may or may not matter where you are. BCMs often hold remote programming, tire pressure monitoring information, and configurations for a vehicle's features or lack thereof. On older GM you can put in a used BCM and OBP it to get the car running, but you'll find the airbag light is on and the radio and remote controls don't work.

The older the vehicle and the less the module does, the better your chances of success. This thread was started to say that if it's GM and has a high-security keyway, you have almost no chance.