.png.445c22bcdcbbedce08191329b9fb30c3.png.0de6decbde4e9b50634d56e4632862f1.png.18b4f695eaf81638e0a7fe9df191dbd3.png){kind=logo}
keymachine
-
Posts
1,306 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Classifieds
Community Map
Posts posted by keymachine
-
-
J2534 and SPS subscription. It’s $40 a vin not $50 a day. The used ones I’ve done had the vin from the vehicle it came from on the salvage yard stock tag. Also, the salvage yard will frequently put it on the receipt.
It’s more important to know the RPO code for the vehicle it’s going into than the one it came from. I have a list of GM rpo codes and then it’s just a matter of finding the sticker on the vehicle.
You can find the rpo code list on Google. I charge the same as flashing a computer.
-
I’ve done a lot of used computers on Chrysler’s and this is the first one that needed a new key in order to complete the programming. That’s why I thought I would post it.
-
Yes, still didn’t work.
-
This is how to program a used ECM using the Otosys IM600. The IM100 will not do this. It’s pretty much the same as using the Maxisys on any other Chrysler product, but this one through me for a loop so I figured I would post how I finally got it programmed. This vehicle uses the FOBIK prox system (Keyless Go). This was a running vehicle with the original computer. They replaced the ECM in an attempt to correct a misfire issue. It didn’t fix it.
I went to diagnostics, then hot function, then Immo, then PCM replace. It wrote the VIN just fine but no matter how I tried it would fail when transferring the secret Key and the immobilizer light would flash.
I tried going through the control unit (WCM) same result. I tried running the PCM replace function using a new key, same result. I tried reprogramming the original key using the Program Ignition Keys function, same result.
Finally I deleted the old keys and programmed one new key, actually I just unlocked their original key, and then everything worked as it should.
Here’s some pictures:
-
Some, it obviously works already. Others, like FCA, we will need to wait and see. But the law is the law so if they don’t, I’m sure big brother will bring the hammer down... yeah right.
-
On 2/22/2018 at 2:21 PM, birdman68 said:
J2534 is truly only for emissions mandate ,but on some platforms we are able to do more modules or 'things"
I will sometimes call the guys I purchased my j box from before I attempt something just to have a direction.
That was originally the case when the initial J2534 law was written in 2002 but that is not the case any more. Under the Massachusetts right to Repair law, the 2018 model year is the deadline for manufacturers to allow full diagnostic and programming access to the aftermarket.
-
On 3/13/2018 at 6:46 AM, birdman68 said:
This is a tip I found , may help in the event skim code is being a challenge to obtain.
Not sure of year coverage but may help one of us.
I always disconnect SKIM module and go to function of
changing VIN. When no SKIM module offline DRB does not
bother you asking for PIN and let you change VIN like car
has no SKIM. After changing VIN connect SKIM back and start
the car. I have change more than 100 ECMs in recent year and
this method never failed.It doesn’t need to transfer the secret Key?
-
This vehicle had an intermittent no start- key wouldn’t turn. Also, the key would sometimes turn but no crank. When the key would turn but no crank, occasionally a light or two would flicker on the instrument cluster. It uses the BMW style key with H92 blade and the Land Rover exclusive EWS4.5 system. At first I thought it might be the steering lock but it ended up being the instrument cluster.
With the used cluster plugged in the vehicle would not start. The 8 leg EEPROM in the pictures was read off the original cluster and written to the new/used cluster. The vehicle then started and the miles were also correct.
-
I was at a shop yesterday to make a key for a different vehicle. While I was there they asked if I would take a look at this 2016 Honda Civic, the immobilizer light was flashing and the vehicle wouldn’t start. I walked over to the vehicle and saw they already had their Maxisys Elite connected, so I thought great I don’t need to get mine since that would be my tool of choice for this scenario. I didn’t get any info and I didn’t really ask any questions because I wanted to make an initial assessment so I knew what questions to ask.
I want to share the diagnostic process I used to repair this vehicle thinking that it may help others.
The first thing I did was go into immobilizer setup and attempted to perform an “all keys lost” programming. I was pretty certain it wasn’t going to work but I was looking for a specific response from the vehicle. I got what I was looking for- “immobilizer system not normal” if you get this message you can try to program the keys as many times and with as many different keys as you want and it will never work.
Next I grabbed my antenna tester out my pocket and tested the immobilizer coil. It was putting out a signal.
After that I went to diagnosis and did an auto scan on all modules. There were no codes in the ECM or immobilizer system but there were codes in the ABS/TCS/VSA, EPS, and a few other systems. I started checking the codes in each system one by one. I would read the codes, clear them, cycle the Key, and read them again to see which ones came back.
The ABS system had a hard fault for “internal failure”. I ask the technician if he had checked the ABS system. “Oh ya, I put a new ABS module in it.” Did you run the replace function in Immobilizer setup? “What’s that?”
Then I went to the main screen on Maxisys, selected hot functions, then Immo, then immobilizer setup, then MICU,VSA replace. I followed the screen prompts and when I was done the immobilizer light was off and the vehicle started. After that I went back to the ABS system cleared and rechecked codes. Surprisingly the internal failure code was still there but my job was done.
Normally I wouldn’t even take a job like this, the only reason I even looked at it was because I was standing next to it and they already had their Maxisys hooked up to it. If you’re going to tackle a job like this you need the right combination of tools, knowledge and luck. As the saying goes sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!
The only thing better than fixing somebody else’s car with your Maxisys, is fixing somebody else’s car with their Maxisys!
-
Probably the hall effect sensor on the in dash ignition, common.
-
21 hours ago, Keyhole - Eugene said:
So was the ECM or the PCM replaced?
ECM = Engine Control Module, PCM = Power Control module yes?
Or does it matter? The screens just say PCM so I'm curious for future reference, as we just bought one of these tools for this exact purpose.
Pretty much what David said. Everybody has their own acronym including vehicle manufactures and scan tool manufactures. I generally use ECM to refer the computer that controls the engine functions which is what was replaced in his case. On this vehicle PCM would be an incorrect usage of that abbreviation because it has a separate transmission control module.
For the most part if someone uses ECM, ECU or PCM they are referring to the same thing- the computer/module that controls the engine functions.
As David said on vehicles where the engine computer and transmission computer are integrated into one unit, PCM would be the correct usage of that acronym and using TCM would be incorrect. But potato potaato.
Obviously no one explain this to Autel when they were writing the softewate.
-
This is a tutorial on syncing a used ECM to a Chrysler Town and Country using Autel Maxisys. This vehicle is a 2005 but the process is the same for pretty much any Chrysler. The newest I've done with the Maxisys is a 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan and the process was identical.
Select Diagnostics
Then Chrysler
Next Automatic Selection
Make sure to manually enter the VIN and do not use the Read function. If you use the read function it will read the incorrect VIN out of the recently installed used ECM. After you enter the VIN click OK.
Although not necessary, it's always a good idea to check and clear all fault codes so select Diagnosis.
And then Auto Scan.
If you want, after reading the fault codes, you can go into each module and review them or just use the Quick Erase function to clear them.
Scroll down to Skim/Skreem and double click the line or single click the arrow.
Select Special Functions
Then PCM Replaced
Click OK
Enter the PIN and then click OK
If the PIN was entered correctly click OK
Click OK
Make sure the VIN is correct and click Yes
Click OK
Click OK
You're done, that's all there is to it.
2004-2007 Chrysler Town & Country Used ECM Replacement with Autel Maxisys by Jay Hanf.pdf
- Davepii, Riveralock, dksponger310 and 5 others
-
7
-
1
2018 Dodge Charger Micropod vs J2534 Key Programming Question and Module Reflashing Info
in Module Repair/Swapping
Posted
Except that the MicroPod is FCA only and the Cardaq M and Cardaq Plus 3 are universal and can be used with all manufacturers.