dksponger310

This is a tutorial on syncing a used ECM to a Chrysler Town and Country using Autel Maxisys. This vehicle is a 2005 but the process is the same for pretty much any Chrysler. The newest I've done with the Maxisys is a 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan and the process was identical. 

Select Diagnostics

Then Chrysler

Next Automatic Selection

Make sure to manually enter the VIN and do not use the Read function. If you use the read function it will read the incorrect VIN out of the recently installed used ECM. After you enter the VIN click OK. 

Although not necessary, it's always a good idea to check and clear all fault codes so select Diagnosis. 

And then Auto Scan. 

If you want, after reading the fault codes, you can go into each module and review them or just use the Quick Erase function to clear them. 

Scroll down to Skim/Skreem and double click the line or single click the arrow.

Select Special Functions

Then PCM Replaced

Click OK

Enter the PIN and then click OK

If the PIN was entered correctly click OK

Click OK

Make sure the VIN is correct and click Yes

Click OK

Click OK
You're done, that's all there is to it.
 
 
2004-2007 Chrysler Town & Country Used ECM Replacement with Autel Maxisys by Jay Hanf.pdf

I was at a shop yesterday to make a key for a different vehicle. While I was there they asked if I would take a look at this 2016 Honda Civic, the immobilizer light was flashing and the vehicle wouldn’t start. I walked over to the vehicle and saw they already had their Maxisys Elite connected, so I thought great I don’t need to get mine since that would be my tool of choice for this scenario. I didn’t get any info and I didn’t really ask any questions because I wanted to make an initial assessment so I knew what questions to ask. 
I want to share the diagnostic process I used to repair this vehicle thinking that it may help others. 
The first thing I did was go into immobilizer setup and attempted to perform an “all keys lost” programming. I was pretty certain it wasn’t going to work but I was looking for a specific response from the vehicle. I got what I was looking for- “immobilizer system not normal” if you get this message you can try to program the keys as many times and with as many different keys as you want and it will never work. 
Next I grabbed my antenna tester out my pocket and tested the immobilizer coil. It was putting out a signal. 
After that I went to diagnosis and did an auto scan on all modules. There were no codes in the ECM or immobilizer system but there were codes in the ABS/TCS/VSA, EPS, and a few other systems. I started checking the codes in each system one by one. I would read the codes, clear them, cycle the Key, and read them again to see which ones came back. 
The ABS system had a hard fault for “internal failure”. I ask the technician if he had checked the ABS system. “Oh ya, I put a new ABS module in it.”  Did you run the replace function in Immobilizer setup?  “What’s that?”
Then I went to the main screen on Maxisys, selected hot functions, then Immo, then immobilizer setup, then MICU,VSA replace. I followed the screen prompts and when I was done the immobilizer light was off and the vehicle started. After that I went back to the ABS system cleared and rechecked codes. Surprisingly the internal failure code was still there but my job was done. 
Normally I wouldn’t even take a job like this, the only reason I even looked at it was because I was standing next to it and they already had their Maxisys hooked up to it. If you’re going to tackle a job like this you need the right combination of tools, knowledge and luck. As the saying goes sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!  
The only thing better than fixing somebody else’s car with your Maxisys, is fixing somebody else’s car with their Maxisys!  

This vehicle had an intermittent no start- key wouldn’t turn. Also, the key would sometimes turn but no crank.  When the key would turn but no crank, occasionally a light or two would flicker on the instrument cluster.  It uses the BMW style key with H92 blade and the Land Rover exclusive EWS4.5 system. At first I thought it might be the steering lock but it ended up being the instrument cluster. 
With the used cluster plugged in the vehicle would not start. The 8 leg EEPROM in the pictures was read off the original cluster and written to the new/used cluster. The vehicle then started and the miles were also correct. 

I find the problem with amateur computer swappers (and I include many commercial automotive repair shops in that designation) to be that they don't know how to source the correct computer. Especially is that true with transponder optional vehicles. If you are going to put in a used computer, you MUST match not only the part number, but also the ALPHA code, which is the 4 or 5 digit alphanumeric number that is usually in large letters. (sometimes they are actually all letters with no numbers) The same part number can be used for many different types of vehicles with various motors and transmissions. The Alpha code designates the calibration information that is flashed to that computer and that calibration information is critical to allow that particular vehicle profile to start, run, and shift etc. If the Alpha code is wrong, the computer will have to be flashed to ever work.
Did the alpha codes match on the computers? Did you check to see if his vehicle was transponder equipped? That is a transponder optional year. If it is a non transponder vehicle, all it needs is the correct computer. It will plug and play with no additional programming needed. I have trained some of my shops on how to get the correct computer. Sometimes they call me to program one, and when I show up I see that it is not transponder equipped. The key is sitting in the ignition, but they never tried jt. I reach in and start the vehicle, collect my trip charge, and hit the road.
If the vehicle was using a chipped key, it is only a matter of editing the VIN and transferring the secret key.  I am not sure if there is a way to do that on the bench. That goes above my current pay scale. 

always try and go for individual units. When you buy these combined units then normally the solder iron is junk.