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hangtime
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Posts posted by hangtime
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I just mail them off. There's dudes on ebay doing them for $30-50.
I looked into getting software to do stuff like that, it's just like what we do. . .not worth it unless you're doing it as your occupation.
Just a heads up you may also need to have the occupant detection sensor under the passenger seat reset as well. Ran into that with a 2014 Outback that fired the driver's bag and both seat belt pretensioners. Resetting the airbag module cleared most of the codes but I was stuck with a code I couldn't get rid of related to that module, which is not sold apart from buying the entire seat base, which is 4 figures.
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I'd tell your customer to look again because the locks get gunked over and are hard to see.
If it's *really* not there, it's possible to air wedge the hatch and sneak an s-shaped tool in to hook the door manual release. Not fun, but possible. That's how we used to open them pre-lishi.
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agreed, I haven't blocked anybody on here.
I can see the post just fine I've just never done that job by eeprom. No reason to.
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Ordered it from Isuzu. . . still have a dealer here in Knox. . .they just do medium duty truck stuff now tho. Can probably still order parts for the cars/SUV's.
Yep there is a special TIS just for Isuzu (there's also one for Saab and Suzuki and others). The only thing you need it for is to enable security access on the Tech 2 prior to setting up the box. . . you don't have to do any functions on it using the tech 2 as a passthru or anything like that. Pull VIN using SPS, plug into TIS, enable security access, go back to the tech 2 at the vehicle and get 'er done. All TIS does is sets a flag in the Tech 2 that says it's come home to mom to check in.
It's hella stupid. Some engineer's attempt at making it secure.
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So, yeah. . . you have to do more than just edit the VIN in the IMMO dump. Figured that out a while back.
I don't know what else, but more. . and the world may never know as this is such a rare, obsolete, and financially unworthy system it's not worth the resources to figure it out.
Years ago I did replace the immo on one of these once with a factory new one and married it with Tech 2, isuzu card, and isuzu tis 2000. No idea if the IM608 emulates enough tech2 isuzu to pull that off.
If you go that route, save the virgin file off the new one and do us all a favor.
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Get a replacement and send it off and have the VATS deleted. . . although from what I know about the VATS system the ECM should be plug and play if it has a BCM. The signal from the BCM to the ECM to enable fuel continue is a 30hz or 50hz wave, it's not based on the vats resistor value. The BCM or VATS module authenticates the resistor and if it likes it, it sends that signal to the ECM.
https://www.amazon.com/Timers-Shop-PASSkey-Bypass-Module-Painless/dp/B074YZ6XPM
Lots of tuning services offer VATS delete within the ECM for LT1 cars:
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Mmmkay so I don't know what else it takes to make one of these run buuuut.
moved key, CEM, and ECU over from the sedan to the wagon.
No start once all that was in the car. . No comms with anything, either. In fact it locked the key up in the damn EIS. Had to pull that out of both cars so I could move everything back to the sedan and put in the EIS with locked keys one at a time to get them back to the keypull position. There is no manual release to get your key back from a pissed off Volvo EIS. Probably why I see so many of them in the junkyard with the tip of the fob broke off.
Nothing worked with the CEM and ECU in the wagon except the power seats. . and oddly the panic button on the remote (lock and unlock did nothing).
Leaning towards the issue with mine may not be just the CEM. Might have wiring corrosion elsewhere in the car. Sunroof drains get stopped up and they conveniently leak at the corners of the dash and A-pillar and trickle down into the floorboards, and presumably run down over everything along the way.
The wiring in these cars is plenty wonky. Have to pull the radio (and a bunch of other shit) to get the EIS out. Without it installed, the cluster doesn't come up but the engine will run.
Anyway, solid plan to stay away from this one.
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3 hours ago, taylormiller said:
Yea, what I would charge him would total it. This one is gonna be Tulsa bound and down.
That's pretty much how I'd feel about that job. VIDA is a pain even when it works right. The aftermarket side of it seems to give zero f*cks about the fact that you're paying for a sub and have a limited amount of time before you might as well take your money and burn it.
It's probably FWD so throw it on a tow dolly all the way to Tulsa. . . or tell him to hit the yard and get the rest of the ECU's from the donor and swap 'em as a matched set. Engine ECU is right up front by the radiator and easy to pull. . . I don't know what else is married up but I've heard the radio.
If I can get my son down for a nap I'll go play ECU legos with those volvos this afternoon and see what it takes to make it run. That's most likely the only affordable solution.
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On 2/28/2020 at 8:03 AM, taylormiller said:
How do you clone? Is it only a matter or reading data from a device, and writing it to the donor? Closest dealer is 2 hours away.
so allegedly xprog will do it, and it's cheap enough and there are a couple of youtooob vids on the subject that aren't particularly detailed, but enough for you or me to know what to do. I have never done it myself but considered it on my two heaps. I'll probably wind up just swapping the key, ecu, CEM, and radio and whatever else isn't happy when I get all that swapped and be done with it. Emergency key is just an insert so there's nothing you have to do with the locks to make things match other than swap the ekey (provided it's still intact).
You need to copy both the flash and eeprom over from both processors. It seems as though it can be done in circuit but having had a CEM die after I touched it in a much less Trumpey (grab em by the p*ssy) manner I'd be hesitant to invoke ownership of a job like that. They die even if you don't mess with 'em. These have a nasty conformal coating on them that i haven't found a solvent that works so abrasive removal is required. Not bad when you're only soldering 6 or 7 points, not fun if you have to clean up a bunch of legs from 2 different 64 leg processors.
The biggest issue is you pretty much need a numbers-matching CEM for cloning to work. I've found 4 different processors in otherwise identical CEMs of that vintage. If you wanna have him crack it open and ID the processor I probably have the one he needs. I have a couple ending in 256 and 384, I need one that ends in 128.
When using VIDA i don't think the processors have to be identical. I don't know if you can overwrite a used CEM, however, and I haven't bothered to ask anyone who would know for sure.
the car is barely worth $500 anyway so how much do they really wanna spend?
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Assume he means the CEM. . . and hell yes it has to be matched up. VIDA is probably the only thing that'll do it if the original isn't available to clone from. Think it'll cost about $150-200 in 3 day passes and software downloads to pull it off. . . or an hour's labor and $68 download if you haul it to Volvo . . . personally I'd just let the monkey haul it to volvo if you can't clone it.
I have a S40 and V50 of that vintage (same car but the V is a wagon and S is a sedan, otherwise identical). V50 has a bad CEM, likely because of blocked sunroof drains causing the interior to flood. Been trying to find a replacement CEM with the same processor so I could just clone it. . . pulled 5 of them in junkyards and the S40 and no ringers so far. I'll probably be an ass and just swap all the modules as a matched set from the S40 and let it run around with the wrong vin.
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I'd venture a guess that most any 2005 Caravan still on the road is a failed wheel bearing or missed oil change away from being junkyard fodder.
I understand wanting to defend the moral high ground but it's ok to be realistic. Write down the pin you choose on the vehicle in a conspicuous place (door jamb by the data plate is my fave because it's where I normally look to get the vin back in the days I could just call in a PIN). Notify the customer and explain the potential issues. Do the thing, get the money, get on with your day.
All of us keyboard badasses on here would do the job better, faster, and charge more. I myself have raised the issue and challenged the status quo when the ability to change the PIN first arrived in our collective toolbox and a few people had the audacity to mention they'd set some PIN's to 0000 because eff the customer, they're always gonna have to use a locksmith now!
I'm older and less interested in causing a ruckus over the way other people choose to fix things. I still replace stripped screws when I find them and pick up trash off the sidewalk (provided there's a receptacle to drop it into), but I'm not above farting in an elevator either. On a moral alignment chart, I'm probably somewhere between chaotic good and chaotic neutral.
- Keyhole - Eugene, Slik, taylormiller and 1 other
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They're not plug and play and you do have to use new keys. They should go in using your favorite programmer's "all keys lost" function on this vehicle as a TDM relearn is what you need to do and it's essentially the same for lost keys or a new module from what I remember from my days of tech 2 shenanigans.
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I agree, but lemme clarify my "tech I harass somewhat regularly" comment: we have each other's cell no, we talk cars, planes, diagnostic strategies, women, god, and the tragedy of living in a bipartisan political system. We talk. It wasn't faux pas to ask about the micropod.
I don't charge this dealer for facility service work or the occasional "whoops we lost this customer's key" jobs, or pulling a pin the rare Routan that finds its way into their service bay.
I don't have a problem with a supplier or middleman making money. I do have a problem with paying 4x more for the same tool than a dealer tech.
I guarantee you AE isn't making that margin. It's brightstar/FCA, and let's be real here, it's nothing more than an asshole tax for us.
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So update to storytime. . .
FCA apparently called the service dept. and read them the riot act about selling me the micropod, so it went back.
Witech support was nice to me but seemed they took their rage out on mom & dad. Threatened to bill the dealer for the difference in price between the tech's micropod and the retail price (about $1300). Service manager played dumb and said something to the effect of "well I don't see anywhere that says we can't sell one" and that was more or less the end of it.
I did give it back so they could send it back and keep the peace.
Anyway, yeah, you REALLY can't buy one through a dealership because FCA are a bunch of douchenozzles.
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So, story time.
I asked one of the techs I harass somewhat regularly at the Dodge dealer what they pay for Micropod II's as he said he owned his. "About $500," he said.
Holy crap that beats the pants off the $1850 they ask from the general public or $2ksomething from AE Tools. . asked if he could get me one. . . "sure just talk to <service manager>". I bring it up with him, he's a bit skeptical that I'll be able to do anything with it as I don't have a router and he's unfamiliar with how these things work outside of a dealer environment. I assure him I can use it and will assume the financial risk if I can't and he agrees to order me one.
It shows up, I write a check and buy it through the service dept. . around $580 with tax. I go to register it and get an email back almost immediately from FCAwitech support asking for a picture of the pod and an explanation of how I acquired it.
Whoops. . . didn't expect the Spanish Inquisition (no one does) so before I answer the email I defer back to my service manager to make sure I'm not putting them in deep doo doo with FCA for selling it to me. He makes some calls, tells me it's okay but I'm on my own on registering it, etc., so I answer the email with photo and a scan of the invoice and a quick line that I'm happy to return it if it wasn't supposed to be sold in that manner.
They reply that no, I shouldn't have bought it that way, as I'm part of the unwashed masses and not a knighted FCA dealership employee I'm supposed to buy my stuff through aftermarket.witechtools.com, and that micropods bought through FCA dealerships or unauthorized retailers normally require an additional fee before they can be registered, but they'll make an exception this one time in the interest of customer service. I thank them and add that if they're ever in east TN and locked out of something or missing keys, they have my contact info.
So anyway, don't do that. Buy your pod the right way or be prepared for it to live in unregistered limbo. I got lucky, you most likely will not.
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On 9/14/2018 at 9:44 AM, keymachine said:
J2534 and SPS subscription. It’s $40 a vin not $50 a day. The used ones I’ve done had the vin from the vehicle it came from on the salvage yard stock tag. Also, the salvage yard will frequently put it on the receipt.
It’s more important to know the RPO code for the vehicle it’s going into than the one it came from. I have a list of GM rpo codes and then it’s just a matter of finding the sticker on the vehicle.
You can find the rpo code list on Google. I charge the same as flashing a computer.
While I agree with that it does get messy when trying to figure out some of the uplevel stuff. I've had all kinds of weird stuff happen when trying to do things like enable a backup camera or add nav.
I have not done it in several years. . . basically since the ones that required tis2web started showing up. When only the Tech2 was required it was relatively easy. Once the laptop and cellular data and subscriptions come into play I priced it out of what anyone wants to pay. And given the success rate was on the low-rent side of "iffy", I pretty much quit. If the radio they show up with isn't compatible or is broken, etc. the situation devolves into "well can't you try programming it harder?"
That's not low hanging fruit. . . them's rotten apples way up the tree.
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Some can be done with just the Tech 2, most if not all after 2007 will require a subscription to TIS2Web and an interface device such as Tech2, MDI, or some J2534 devices will do it.
As the subscription costs $50/day, it's an expensive process. . . usually more than what they paid for the radio. On top of that you'll have be able to figure out the RPO code of the radio they're trying to install (assuming they don't show up with a copy of the sticker from the vehicle they came out of), or just try all of the ones listed until you get one that works. Lots of fun crap like the volume will be stuck at an uncomfortable level or the door chime will be too loud or on all the time if you set it up under the wrong RPO.
In short, it sucks. Charge accordingly. I quote $200 for ones that require Tis2web but nobody has said yes to that other than a guy with a decked out Denali that wanted a nav/backup camera radio unlocked. Everyone else I just suggest they put in an aftermarket head unit.
2019 Subaru Forester Airbag module
in Module Repair/Swapping
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It doesn't really bother me as they don't compete with what I do.
There are people on ebay you can send your BMW FEM and DME to and they'll make you a key by mail. . . even that doesn't really annoy me as the number of people willing to send in a FEM and DME for a multi-week process is pretty small. That's not even getting into the hyper specialized tuning and deleting by mail businesses that exist on ebay and elsewhere to do anything from DPF/DEF/PATS/VATS/Passkey/Sentry/NATS delete or richen up the fuel curves on your newly turbocharged thingymabob.
But back to the airbag stuff. . . yeah the ROI is pretty low if you're competing with ebay prices, and you probably would be. Most saavy rebuilders already know that avenue and are quite capable of pulling the module and don't mind if it takes a week or three.
No real opportunities there.