keymachine

J2534 and SPS subscription. It’s $40 a vin not $50 a day. The used ones I’ve done had the vin from the vehicle it came from on the salvage yard stock tag.  Also, the salvage yard will frequently put it on the receipt.  
It’s more important to know the RPO code for the vehicle it’s going into than the one it came from. I have a list of GM rpo codes and then it’s just a matter of finding the sticker on the vehicle. 
You can find the rpo code list on Google. I charge the same as flashing a computer. 

J2534 and SPS subscription. It’s $40 a vin not $50 a day. The used ones I’ve done had the vin from the vehicle it came from on the salvage yard stock tag.  Also, the salvage yard will frequently put it on the receipt.  
It’s more important to know the RPO code for the vehicle it’s going into than the one it came from. I have a list of GM rpo codes and then it’s just a matter of finding the sticker on the vehicle. 
You can find the rpo code list on Google. I charge the same as flashing a computer. 

This is how to program a used ECM using the Otosys IM600. The IM100 will not do this. It’s pretty much the same as using the Maxisys on any other Chrysler product, but this one through me for a loop so I figured I would post how I finally got it programmed.  This vehicle uses the FOBIK prox system (Keyless Go).  This was a running vehicle with the original computer. They replaced the ECM in an attempt to correct a misfire issue.  It didn’t fix it.
I went to diagnostics, then hot function, then Immo, then PCM replace. It wrote the VIN just fine but no matter how I tried it would fail when transferring the secret Key and the immobilizer light would flash.
I tried going through the control unit (WCM) same result.  I tried running the PCM replace function using a new key, same result. I tried reprogramming the original key using the Program Ignition Keys function, same result.  
Finally I deleted the old keys and programmed one new key, actually I just unlocked their original key, and then everything worked as it should. 
Here’s some pictures:

It doesn’t need to transfer the secret Key?

Live Note with Images: http://www.evernote.com/l/AAn7iYuDxQ1M147UhT8ysWWrB00DVOYvmRs/
Task: Restore operation to a No Start vehicle after Engine Control Module has been changed.
Conditions: 2011 Chevrolet Malibu using Ae Tools and Computers Aezflasher 1 (with USB drivers installed), Windows 10, Latest version of Java, strong internet connection (get the shops internet connection if you are at one), you should be using a battery maintainer during this procedure. GM recommends the Deltronics products line, jump pack, new or existing B111 Key. 10mm socket to work on battery terminals.
Pro Tip: If you have multiple partitions, you must install your J2534 drivers to the partition you are working on! Example if you have a generic partition and that is where you installed you J2534, but later switch to a GM partition then you will need to install the driver's there as well.
AE tools drivers page: https://www.aetools.us/catalog-flipbook/softdownload/

www.acdelcotds.com is your starting point.
Steps: 

    1. There is no "SPS" software, the programming is done via Internet Explorer browser. 
    2. Check and download the latest version of Java www.java.com, make sure you are using Internet Explorer
    3. Log into Acdelcotds.com (If you don't have a log in then jump through the hoops to register, you do not need a Nastf ID to perform these procedures fyi.)
    4. Click Service and Programming Information
    5. Buy the Service Programming Only subscription. Pay for your subscription and come start back at the home page and select Service and Programming Information again to go back to the same page, but now it will show Access Your Subscription.
    6. Click Access Your Subscription, follow the prompts and approve the installs etc until you get a button that says, "Start Sps". If you don't have all of your Java updated, then this is where you will have problems. Download from java.com and restart the process.
    7. Choose Ecu replace and program
    8. Type in the Vin number
    9. Select Engine Control Module - Programming
    10. Next, Next, Next follow the prompts until programming is complete. Time to program depends on speed of Internet. I suggest getting on the shops wifi first before you get started.
    11. After you see the completion screen, click "Proceed with Same Vin".
    12. Select Theft Deterrent System - Program
    13. Select the option with Powertrain in it it, not just the program key option.
    14. Follow the on screen prompts till complete. Lights will blink on and off and put you in a 12 minute wait. 
    15. At the end of the 12 minutes you are done. Cycle the key watch the security light to make sure it comes on briefly then goes off. If you turn the key right after you program the ECM the light will come on, blink twice, then start blinking at a moderate rate. Note: If you come out to a vehicle that displays that 2 blink behavior you may want to ask if they changed the computer.
    16. You MAY need to do a hard reset to reset the HVAC system, in this case we didn't do that.
    17. Let the customer/shop know if they need an extra key, now would be a good time to purchase that from you and let them know about your other services and ask for referrals to other shops that may need your services, try to get a name and shop name to make a marketing stop at!

When you are done with the ECU programming select Vehicle Theft Deterrent Learn PowerTrain option and follow the prompts to get the key reprogrammed. (You can reprogram the same key as before or a new key.)
Robert Reynolds
Special Thanks to: Donnie S., Brandon T. and Bill B. for the prep, help and helping have the confidence to get this done!
 
2011 Chevy Malibu ECM Swap by Rob Reynolds.pdf

I was at a shop yesterday to make a key for a different vehicle. While I was there they asked if I would take a look at this 2016 Honda Civic, the immobilizer light was flashing and the vehicle wouldn’t start. I walked over to the vehicle and saw they already had their Maxisys Elite connected, so I thought great I don’t need to get mine since that would be my tool of choice for this scenario. I didn’t get any info and I didn’t really ask any questions because I wanted to make an initial assessment so I knew what questions to ask. 
I want to share the diagnostic process I used to repair this vehicle thinking that it may help others. 
The first thing I did was go into immobilizer setup and attempted to perform an “all keys lost” programming. I was pretty certain it wasn’t going to work but I was looking for a specific response from the vehicle. I got what I was looking for- “immobilizer system not normal” if you get this message you can try to program the keys as many times and with as many different keys as you want and it will never work. 
Next I grabbed my antenna tester out my pocket and tested the immobilizer coil. It was putting out a signal. 
After that I went to diagnosis and did an auto scan on all modules. There were no codes in the ECM or immobilizer system but there were codes in the ABS/TCS/VSA, EPS, and a few other systems. I started checking the codes in each system one by one. I would read the codes, clear them, cycle the Key, and read them again to see which ones came back. 
The ABS system had a hard fault for “internal failure”. I ask the technician if he had checked the ABS system. “Oh ya, I put a new ABS module in it.”  Did you run the replace function in Immobilizer setup?  “What’s that?”
Then I went to the main screen on Maxisys, selected hot functions, then Immo, then immobilizer setup, then MICU,VSA replace. I followed the screen prompts and when I was done the immobilizer light was off and the vehicle started. After that I went back to the ABS system cleared and rechecked codes. Surprisingly the internal failure code was still there but my job was done. 
Normally I wouldn’t even take a job like this, the only reason I even looked at it was because I was standing next to it and they already had their Maxisys hooked up to it. If you’re going to tackle a job like this you need the right combination of tools, knowledge and luck. As the saying goes sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!  
The only thing better than fixing somebody else’s car with your Maxisys, is fixing somebody else’s car with their Maxisys!  

This vehicle had an intermittent no start- key wouldn’t turn. Also, the key would sometimes turn but no crank.  When the key would turn but no crank, occasionally a light or two would flicker on the instrument cluster.  It uses the BMW style key with H92 blade and the Land Rover exclusive EWS4.5 system. At first I thought it might be the steering lock but it ended up being the instrument cluster. 
With the used cluster plugged in the vehicle would not start. The 8 leg EEPROM in the pictures was read off the original cluster and written to the new/used cluster. The vehicle then started and the miles were also correct. 

I was at a shop yesterday to make a key for a different vehicle. While I was there they asked if I would take a look at this 2016 Honda Civic, the immobilizer light was flashing and the vehicle wouldn’t start. I walked over to the vehicle and saw they already had their Maxisys Elite connected, so I thought great I don’t need to get mine since that would be my tool of choice for this scenario. I didn’t get any info and I didn’t really ask any questions because I wanted to make an initial assessment so I knew what questions to ask. 
I want to share the diagnostic process I used to repair this vehicle thinking that it may help others. 
The first thing I did was go into immobilizer setup and attempted to perform an “all keys lost” programming. I was pretty certain it wasn’t going to work but I was looking for a specific response from the vehicle. I got what I was looking for- “immobilizer system not normal” if you get this message you can try to program the keys as many times and with as many different keys as you want and it will never work. 
Next I grabbed my antenna tester out my pocket and tested the immobilizer coil. It was putting out a signal. 
After that I went to diagnosis and did an auto scan on all modules. There were no codes in the ECM or immobilizer system but there were codes in the ABS/TCS/VSA, EPS, and a few other systems. I started checking the codes in each system one by one. I would read the codes, clear them, cycle the Key, and read them again to see which ones came back. 
The ABS system had a hard fault for “internal failure”. I ask the technician if he had checked the ABS system. “Oh ya, I put a new ABS module in it.”  Did you run the replace function in Immobilizer setup?  “What’s that?”
Then I went to the main screen on Maxisys, selected hot functions, then Immo, then immobilizer setup, then MICU,VSA replace. I followed the screen prompts and when I was done the immobilizer light was off and the vehicle started. After that I went back to the ABS system cleared and rechecked codes. Surprisingly the internal failure code was still there but my job was done. 
Normally I wouldn’t even take a job like this, the only reason I even looked at it was because I was standing next to it and they already had their Maxisys hooked up to it. If you’re going to tackle a job like this you need the right combination of tools, knowledge and luck. As the saying goes sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!  
The only thing better than fixing somebody else’s car with your Maxisys, is fixing somebody else’s car with their Maxisys!  

This vehicle had an intermittent no start- key wouldn’t turn. Also, the key would sometimes turn but no crank.  When the key would turn but no crank, occasionally a light or two would flicker on the instrument cluster.  It uses the BMW style key with H92 blade and the Land Rover exclusive EWS4.5 system. At first I thought it might be the steering lock but it ended up being the instrument cluster. 
With the used cluster plugged in the vehicle would not start. The 8 leg EEPROM in the pictures was read off the original cluster and written to the new/used cluster. The vehicle then started and the miles were also correct. 

I was at a shop yesterday to make a key for a different vehicle. While I was there they asked if I would take a look at this 2016 Honda Civic, the immobilizer light was flashing and the vehicle wouldn’t start. I walked over to the vehicle and saw they already had their Maxisys Elite connected, so I thought great I don’t need to get mine since that would be my tool of choice for this scenario. I didn’t get any info and I didn’t really ask any questions because I wanted to make an initial assessment so I knew what questions to ask. 
I want to share the diagnostic process I used to repair this vehicle thinking that it may help others. 
The first thing I did was go into immobilizer setup and attempted to perform an “all keys lost” programming. I was pretty certain it wasn’t going to work but I was looking for a specific response from the vehicle. I got what I was looking for- “immobilizer system not normal” if you get this message you can try to program the keys as many times and with as many different keys as you want and it will never work. 
Next I grabbed my antenna tester out my pocket and tested the immobilizer coil. It was putting out a signal. 
After that I went to diagnosis and did an auto scan on all modules. There were no codes in the ECM or immobilizer system but there were codes in the ABS/TCS/VSA, EPS, and a few other systems. I started checking the codes in each system one by one. I would read the codes, clear them, cycle the Key, and read them again to see which ones came back. 
The ABS system had a hard fault for “internal failure”. I ask the technician if he had checked the ABS system. “Oh ya, I put a new ABS module in it.”  Did you run the replace function in Immobilizer setup?  “What’s that?”
Then I went to the main screen on Maxisys, selected hot functions, then Immo, then immobilizer setup, then MICU,VSA replace. I followed the screen prompts and when I was done the immobilizer light was off and the vehicle started. After that I went back to the ABS system cleared and rechecked codes. Surprisingly the internal failure code was still there but my job was done. 
Normally I wouldn’t even take a job like this, the only reason I even looked at it was because I was standing next to it and they already had their Maxisys hooked up to it. If you’re going to tackle a job like this you need the right combination of tools, knowledge and luck. As the saying goes sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!  
The only thing better than fixing somebody else’s car with your Maxisys, is fixing somebody else’s car with their Maxisys!  

Update:
The person this vehicle is for actually worked as a mercedes dealer tech for 10ish years so he has been a help. He just does not have the account to order TRP, or subscriptions/tools at this point.
 
Issue: the Maxysis connects, and the VIN etc of the new ordered module matches already and can test function/read key fine.
To program the keys it puts out a random number , a key ID, SKIM (for remote i think) etc. You have to convert this # to a 16 digit number to program (X1 or X2 function according to mercedes).
The NASTF site you would think does this with a sub. The site has a link to VEDOC which is where the conversion software is. However the login I was provided does not work to log into this portion of their site - it works on literally every other aspect of the mercedes sites.
As they are east coast and closed, I am going to call their support line tomorrow and see whats up. Hopefully its a straight forward issue, as the help documents make it look very easy to get this number - assuming I can get a log in.
 
 
Also he has a factory scan tool (expired subscription) and it is nearly identical menus, and numbers/wording as Maxysis. The software appears to be a near clone as the factory tool as far as programming the keys go.

This is a tutorial on syncing a used ECM to a Chrysler Town and Country using Autel Maxisys. This vehicle is a 2005 but the process is the same for pretty much any Chrysler. The newest I've done with the Maxisys is a 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan and the process was identical. 

Select Diagnostics

Then Chrysler

Next Automatic Selection

Make sure to manually enter the VIN and do not use the Read function. If you use the read function it will read the incorrect VIN out of the recently installed used ECM. After you enter the VIN click OK. 

Although not necessary, it's always a good idea to check and clear all fault codes so select Diagnosis. 

And then Auto Scan. 

If you want, after reading the fault codes, you can go into each module and review them or just use the Quick Erase function to clear them. 

Scroll down to Skim/Skreem and double click the line or single click the arrow.

Select Special Functions

Then PCM Replaced

Click OK

Enter the PIN and then click OK

If the PIN was entered correctly click OK

Click OK

Make sure the VIN is correct and click Yes

Click OK

Click OK
You're done, that's all there is to it.
 
 
2004-2007 Chrysler Town & Country Used ECM Replacement with Autel Maxisys by Jay Hanf.pdf

I was at a shop yesterday to make a key for a different vehicle. While I was there they asked if I would take a look at this 2016 Honda Civic, the immobilizer light was flashing and the vehicle wouldn’t start. I walked over to the vehicle and saw they already had their Maxisys Elite connected, so I thought great I don’t need to get mine since that would be my tool of choice for this scenario. I didn’t get any info and I didn’t really ask any questions because I wanted to make an initial assessment so I knew what questions to ask. 
I want to share the diagnostic process I used to repair this vehicle thinking that it may help others. 
The first thing I did was go into immobilizer setup and attempted to perform an “all keys lost” programming. I was pretty certain it wasn’t going to work but I was looking for a specific response from the vehicle. I got what I was looking for- “immobilizer system not normal” if you get this message you can try to program the keys as many times and with as many different keys as you want and it will never work. 
Next I grabbed my antenna tester out my pocket and tested the immobilizer coil. It was putting out a signal. 
After that I went to diagnosis and did an auto scan on all modules. There were no codes in the ECM or immobilizer system but there were codes in the ABS/TCS/VSA, EPS, and a few other systems. I started checking the codes in each system one by one. I would read the codes, clear them, cycle the Key, and read them again to see which ones came back. 
The ABS system had a hard fault for “internal failure”. I ask the technician if he had checked the ABS system. “Oh ya, I put a new ABS module in it.”  Did you run the replace function in Immobilizer setup?  “What’s that?”
Then I went to the main screen on Maxisys, selected hot functions, then Immo, then immobilizer setup, then MICU,VSA replace. I followed the screen prompts and when I was done the immobilizer light was off and the vehicle started. After that I went back to the ABS system cleared and rechecked codes. Surprisingly the internal failure code was still there but my job was done. 
Normally I wouldn’t even take a job like this, the only reason I even looked at it was because I was standing next to it and they already had their Maxisys hooked up to it. If you’re going to tackle a job like this you need the right combination of tools, knowledge and luck. As the saying goes sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!  
The only thing better than fixing somebody else’s car with your Maxisys, is fixing somebody else’s car with their Maxisys!  

This vehicle had an intermittent no start- key wouldn’t turn. Also, the key would sometimes turn but no crank.  When the key would turn but no crank, occasionally a light or two would flicker on the instrument cluster.  It uses the BMW style key with H92 blade and the Land Rover exclusive EWS4.5 system. At first I thought it might be the steering lock but it ended up being the instrument cluster. 
With the used cluster plugged in the vehicle would not start. The 8 leg EEPROM in the pictures was read off the original cluster and written to the new/used cluster. The vehicle then started and the miles were also correct. 

I was at a shop yesterday to make a key for a different vehicle. While I was there they asked if I would take a look at this 2016 Honda Civic, the immobilizer light was flashing and the vehicle wouldn’t start. I walked over to the vehicle and saw they already had their Maxisys Elite connected, so I thought great I don’t need to get mine since that would be my tool of choice for this scenario. I didn’t get any info and I didn’t really ask any questions because I wanted to make an initial assessment so I knew what questions to ask. 
I want to share the diagnostic process I used to repair this vehicle thinking that it may help others. 
The first thing I did was go into immobilizer setup and attempted to perform an “all keys lost” programming. I was pretty certain it wasn’t going to work but I was looking for a specific response from the vehicle. I got what I was looking for- “immobilizer system not normal” if you get this message you can try to program the keys as many times and with as many different keys as you want and it will never work. 
Next I grabbed my antenna tester out my pocket and tested the immobilizer coil. It was putting out a signal. 
After that I went to diagnosis and did an auto scan on all modules. There were no codes in the ECM or immobilizer system but there were codes in the ABS/TCS/VSA, EPS, and a few other systems. I started checking the codes in each system one by one. I would read the codes, clear them, cycle the Key, and read them again to see which ones came back. 
The ABS system had a hard fault for “internal failure”. I ask the technician if he had checked the ABS system. “Oh ya, I put a new ABS module in it.”  Did you run the replace function in Immobilizer setup?  “What’s that?”
Then I went to the main screen on Maxisys, selected hot functions, then Immo, then immobilizer setup, then MICU,VSA replace. I followed the screen prompts and when I was done the immobilizer light was off and the vehicle started. After that I went back to the ABS system cleared and rechecked codes. Surprisingly the internal failure code was still there but my job was done. 
Normally I wouldn’t even take a job like this, the only reason I even looked at it was because I was standing next to it and they already had their Maxisys hooked up to it. If you’re going to tackle a job like this you need the right combination of tools, knowledge and luck. As the saying goes sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!  
The only thing better than fixing somebody else’s car with your Maxisys, is fixing somebody else’s car with their Maxisys!  

This vehicle had an intermittent no start- key wouldn’t turn. Also, the key would sometimes turn but no crank.  When the key would turn but no crank, occasionally a light or two would flicker on the instrument cluster.  It uses the BMW style key with H92 blade and the Land Rover exclusive EWS4.5 system. At first I thought it might be the steering lock but it ended up being the instrument cluster. 
With the used cluster plugged in the vehicle would not start. The 8 leg EEPROM in the pictures was read off the original cluster and written to the new/used cluster. The vehicle then started and the miles were also correct. 

This vehicle had an intermittent no start- key wouldn’t turn. Also, the key would sometimes turn but no crank.  When the key would turn but no crank, occasionally a light or two would flicker on the instrument cluster.  It uses the BMW style key with H92 blade and the Land Rover exclusive EWS4.5 system. At first I thought it might be the steering lock but it ended up being the instrument cluster. 
With the used cluster plugged in the vehicle would not start. The 8 leg EEPROM in the pictures was read off the original cluster and written to the new/used cluster. The vehicle then started and the miles were also correct. 

This vehicle had an intermittent no start- key wouldn’t turn. Also, the key would sometimes turn but no crank.  When the key would turn but no crank, occasionally a light or two would flicker on the instrument cluster.  It uses the BMW style key with H92 blade and the Land Rover exclusive EWS4.5 system. At first I thought it might be the steering lock but it ended up being the instrument cluster. 
With the used cluster plugged in the vehicle would not start. The 8 leg EEPROM in the pictures was read off the original cluster and written to the new/used cluster. The vehicle then started and the miles were also correct. 

This vehicle had an intermittent no start- key wouldn’t turn. Also, the key would sometimes turn but no crank.  When the key would turn but no crank, occasionally a light or two would flicker on the instrument cluster.  It uses the BMW style key with H92 blade and the Land Rover exclusive EWS4.5 system. At first I thought it might be the steering lock but it ended up being the instrument cluster. 
With the used cluster plugged in the vehicle would not start. The 8 leg EEPROM in the pictures was read off the original cluster and written to the new/used cluster. The vehicle then started and the miles were also correct. 

This vehicle had an intermittent no start- key wouldn’t turn. Also, the key would sometimes turn but no crank.  When the key would turn but no crank, occasionally a light or two would flicker on the instrument cluster.  It uses the BMW style key with H92 blade and the Land Rover exclusive EWS4.5 system. At first I thought it might be the steering lock but it ended up being the instrument cluster. 
With the used cluster plugged in the vehicle would not start. The 8 leg EEPROM in the pictures was read off the original cluster and written to the new/used cluster. The vehicle then started and the miles were also correct. 

This vehicle had an intermittent no start- key wouldn’t turn. Also, the key would sometimes turn but no crank.  When the key would turn but no crank, occasionally a light or two would flicker on the instrument cluster.  It uses the BMW style key with H92 blade and the Land Rover exclusive EWS4.5 system. At first I thought it might be the steering lock but it ended up being the instrument cluster. 
With the used cluster plugged in the vehicle would not start. The 8 leg EEPROM in the pictures was read off the original cluster and written to the new/used cluster. The vehicle then started and the miles were also correct. 

I was at a shop yesterday to make a key for a different vehicle. While I was there they asked if I would take a look at this 2016 Honda Civic, the immobilizer light was flashing and the vehicle wouldn’t start. I walked over to the vehicle and saw they already had their Maxisys Elite connected, so I thought great I don’t need to get mine since that would be my tool of choice for this scenario. I didn’t get any info and I didn’t really ask any questions because I wanted to make an initial assessment so I knew what questions to ask. 
I want to share the diagnostic process I used to repair this vehicle thinking that it may help others. 
The first thing I did was go into immobilizer setup and attempted to perform an “all keys lost” programming. I was pretty certain it wasn’t going to work but I was looking for a specific response from the vehicle. I got what I was looking for- “immobilizer system not normal” if you get this message you can try to program the keys as many times and with as many different keys as you want and it will never work. 
Next I grabbed my antenna tester out my pocket and tested the immobilizer coil. It was putting out a signal. 
After that I went to diagnosis and did an auto scan on all modules. There were no codes in the ECM or immobilizer system but there were codes in the ABS/TCS/VSA, EPS, and a few other systems. I started checking the codes in each system one by one. I would read the codes, clear them, cycle the Key, and read them again to see which ones came back. 
The ABS system had a hard fault for “internal failure”. I ask the technician if he had checked the ABS system. “Oh ya, I put a new ABS module in it.”  Did you run the replace function in Immobilizer setup?  “What’s that?”
Then I went to the main screen on Maxisys, selected hot functions, then Immo, then immobilizer setup, then MICU,VSA replace. I followed the screen prompts and when I was done the immobilizer light was off and the vehicle started. After that I went back to the ABS system cleared and rechecked codes. Surprisingly the internal failure code was still there but my job was done. 
Normally I wouldn’t even take a job like this, the only reason I even looked at it was because I was standing next to it and they already had their Maxisys hooked up to it. If you’re going to tackle a job like this you need the right combination of tools, knowledge and luck. As the saying goes sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!  
The only thing better than fixing somebody else’s car with your Maxisys, is fixing somebody else’s car with their Maxisys!  

I was at a shop yesterday to make a key for a different vehicle. While I was there they asked if I would take a look at this 2016 Honda Civic, the immobilizer light was flashing and the vehicle wouldn’t start. I walked over to the vehicle and saw they already had their Maxisys Elite connected, so I thought great I don’t need to get mine since that would be my tool of choice for this scenario. I didn’t get any info and I didn’t really ask any questions because I wanted to make an initial assessment so I knew what questions to ask. 
I want to share the diagnostic process I used to repair this vehicle thinking that it may help others. 
The first thing I did was go into immobilizer setup and attempted to perform an “all keys lost” programming. I was pretty certain it wasn’t going to work but I was looking for a specific response from the vehicle. I got what I was looking for- “immobilizer system not normal” if you get this message you can try to program the keys as many times and with as many different keys as you want and it will never work. 
Next I grabbed my antenna tester out my pocket and tested the immobilizer coil. It was putting out a signal. 
After that I went to diagnosis and did an auto scan on all modules. There were no codes in the ECM or immobilizer system but there were codes in the ABS/TCS/VSA, EPS, and a few other systems. I started checking the codes in each system one by one. I would read the codes, clear them, cycle the Key, and read them again to see which ones came back. 
The ABS system had a hard fault for “internal failure”. I ask the technician if he had checked the ABS system. “Oh ya, I put a new ABS module in it.”  Did you run the replace function in Immobilizer setup?  “What’s that?”
Then I went to the main screen on Maxisys, selected hot functions, then Immo, then immobilizer setup, then MICU,VSA replace. I followed the screen prompts and when I was done the immobilizer light was off and the vehicle started. After that I went back to the ABS system cleared and rechecked codes. Surprisingly the internal failure code was still there but my job was done. 
Normally I wouldn’t even take a job like this, the only reason I even looked at it was because I was standing next to it and they already had their Maxisys hooked up to it. If you’re going to tackle a job like this you need the right combination of tools, knowledge and luck. As the saying goes sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!  
The only thing better than fixing somebody else’s car with your Maxisys, is fixing somebody else’s car with their Maxisys!  

I was at a shop yesterday to make a key for a different vehicle. While I was there they asked if I would take a look at this 2016 Honda Civic, the immobilizer light was flashing and the vehicle wouldn’t start. I walked over to the vehicle and saw they already had their Maxisys Elite connected, so I thought great I don’t need to get mine since that would be my tool of choice for this scenario. I didn’t get any info and I didn’t really ask any questions because I wanted to make an initial assessment so I knew what questions to ask. 
I want to share the diagnostic process I used to repair this vehicle thinking that it may help others. 
The first thing I did was go into immobilizer setup and attempted to perform an “all keys lost” programming. I was pretty certain it wasn’t going to work but I was looking for a specific response from the vehicle. I got what I was looking for- “immobilizer system not normal” if you get this message you can try to program the keys as many times and with as many different keys as you want and it will never work. 
Next I grabbed my antenna tester out my pocket and tested the immobilizer coil. It was putting out a signal. 
After that I went to diagnosis and did an auto scan on all modules. There were no codes in the ECM or immobilizer system but there were codes in the ABS/TCS/VSA, EPS, and a few other systems. I started checking the codes in each system one by one. I would read the codes, clear them, cycle the Key, and read them again to see which ones came back. 
The ABS system had a hard fault for “internal failure”. I ask the technician if he had checked the ABS system. “Oh ya, I put a new ABS module in it.”  Did you run the replace function in Immobilizer setup?  “What’s that?”
Then I went to the main screen on Maxisys, selected hot functions, then Immo, then immobilizer setup, then MICU,VSA replace. I followed the screen prompts and when I was done the immobilizer light was off and the vehicle started. After that I went back to the ABS system cleared and rechecked codes. Surprisingly the internal failure code was still there but my job was done. 
Normally I wouldn’t even take a job like this, the only reason I even looked at it was because I was standing next to it and they already had their Maxisys hooked up to it. If you’re going to tackle a job like this you need the right combination of tools, knowledge and luck. As the saying goes sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!  
The only thing better than fixing somebody else’s car with your Maxisys, is fixing somebody else’s car with their Maxisys!  

I was at a shop yesterday to make a key for a different vehicle. While I was there they asked if I would take a look at this 2016 Honda Civic, the immobilizer light was flashing and the vehicle wouldn’t start. I walked over to the vehicle and saw they already had their Maxisys Elite connected, so I thought great I don’t need to get mine since that would be my tool of choice for this scenario. I didn’t get any info and I didn’t really ask any questions because I wanted to make an initial assessment so I knew what questions to ask. 
I want to share the diagnostic process I used to repair this vehicle thinking that it may help others. 
The first thing I did was go into immobilizer setup and attempted to perform an “all keys lost” programming. I was pretty certain it wasn’t going to work but I was looking for a specific response from the vehicle. I got what I was looking for- “immobilizer system not normal” if you get this message you can try to program the keys as many times and with as many different keys as you want and it will never work. 
Next I grabbed my antenna tester out my pocket and tested the immobilizer coil. It was putting out a signal. 
After that I went to diagnosis and did an auto scan on all modules. There were no codes in the ECM or immobilizer system but there were codes in the ABS/TCS/VSA, EPS, and a few other systems. I started checking the codes in each system one by one. I would read the codes, clear them, cycle the Key, and read them again to see which ones came back. 
The ABS system had a hard fault for “internal failure”. I ask the technician if he had checked the ABS system. “Oh ya, I put a new ABS module in it.”  Did you run the replace function in Immobilizer setup?  “What’s that?”
Then I went to the main screen on Maxisys, selected hot functions, then Immo, then immobilizer setup, then MICU,VSA replace. I followed the screen prompts and when I was done the immobilizer light was off and the vehicle started. After that I went back to the ABS system cleared and rechecked codes. Surprisingly the internal failure code was still there but my job was done. 
Normally I wouldn’t even take a job like this, the only reason I even looked at it was because I was standing next to it and they already had their Maxisys hooked up to it. If you’re going to tackle a job like this you need the right combination of tools, knowledge and luck. As the saying goes sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!  
The only thing better than fixing somebody else’s car with your Maxisys, is fixing somebody else’s car with their Maxisys!